I always drill prior to finishing - that way if the depth collar scratches the veneer at all, that will be taken care of when I sand before finishing. I have the wooden handled tool from lee valley for setting the ferules, it makes that go easy. Then I insert the stainless steel ferules to hold the pins.īottom line, I do the job with a scrap of mahogany, a couple spacers out of off cuts in the scrap bin, a VIX bit, and a brad bit with a depth collar. Then I go back and re-drill the holes with the right sized brad-point bit with a depth stop collar. I'll use the same strip of mahogany to drill (in that example) all 8 sets of holes: I'll just cut two spacer strips that will sit on the cabinet bottom and the mahogany will sit on it the one spacer would centre my mahogany strip at 10", the other at 20", clear as mud? Now, because I am using just a piece of 1/4" mahogany with no bushings, I don't want the holes growing bigger with usage, so I drill them first with a VIX bit. So, for example, in a 30" tall cabinet with two adjustable shelves, I'd centre one spread at 10" height and the other at 20" height. I don't do a full column of holes (usually), rather I'll just do a spread of 3-5 holes centred on the ideal shelf location. If I flush the strip to the front of the cabinet, the holes are the same distance from the front edge. If I push the strip right to the back of the cabinet, the holes are exactly the distance I want from the back edge. It has a spread of holes drilled a uniform distance apart, equidistant from either edge of the strip of mahogany. I have a simple piece of 1/4" mahogany ply about 8" high and about 3" wide.
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